Monforte de Lemos to Belesar


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Camino Frances - 2014

Day 9 Monforte de Lemos to Belesar

Camino de Invierno (the "Winter Road")

26.9 km - 6.66 hours

Pilgrims have been travelling to Santiago de Compostela to revere the burial place of St. James for over a thousand years, and there has never been just one route. In the winter, when traveling over the mountain pass of O Cebreiro was extremely difficult or there was flooding in the Valcarcel valley pilgrims often used the Camino de Invierno from Ponferada along the flatter terrain of the river Sil gorge. The route passes through A Rua to Monforte de Lemos, and then to Santiago via Chantada, Rodeiro and Silleda. There has been a resurgence in interest in the route over recent years as the Camino Frances becomes busier and busier, and the signage on the route has been improved. I was interested to check in out and selected the section between Monforte de Lemos and Belesar and Chantada. Actually my plan had been to go half way and to stay at Casa Rural Torre de Vilariño, but it was fully booked. I decided to walk half way and get a taxi back, but the route goes through very remote regions and there was no chance of getting a bus or a taxi. I continued on for 27 km to Belesar, and even there it was difficult to get a taxi. The only place I could go to for help was the posh restaurant at the marina; they were extremely busy but after waiting for half an hour I finally got help from the Manager there. The 25 minute taxi ride back to Monforte was Euro 35, not something you want to be doing every day you walk on the Camino. Perhaps if I spoke Spanish it would have been easier, and perhaps in the future the infrastructure will be improved. But during the nearly 7 hours that I was walking I saw only 1 other walker (and that was after 25 km) and I saw very few local people. There were certainly no coffee shops or other facilities.

I suppose that I had been warned! A guide on the internet says:-

Other warnings are in order: The Invierno is not a Camino for beginners or for hikers looking a cheap-and-easy holiday. The few guide leaflets available are flashy and vague, designed more for public-relations purposes than actual trail-finding. The singular Spanish-language guide is nicely illustrated and detailed, but somewhat heavy and expensive. Many locals do not know a Camino exists in their neighborhood, and there is little pilgrim-oriented infrastructure as such. Waymarks have improved significantly in recent years, but still are sometimes far apart, contradictory, or even non-existent. A good level of Spanish is essential.

Leaving Monforte de Lemos via the medieval bridge

The first objective was to get from the medieval bridge to the roundabout with the pilgrim statue on the outskirts of town, and to pick up the road to A Vide (the LU-3204). The notes I was working from indicated that you should stick to Abeledos Street (which is the LU-3202) until the edge of town. This presented three problems; first there was a Y-junction in the road and I was not sure which leg to take; secondly Abeledos Street ends in a T-junction on a major road (the LU-664), and again I was not sure which way to go; thirdly I did not see the Haley Supermarket or the Church of San Antonio referred to in the notes. It was a very misty morning and it was the first time I have been that way, so I may well have missed it. The route that I took is shown on the map below:-

Perhaps a better way would have been to take the left hand road at the Y-junction, and to go along Rua Mercado. This would have taken me straight to the roundabout with the horreo or Galacian Grain Store.

Or, an even simpler option would have been to continue along Ourense Street to the traffic lights where it meets Rua Chantada, and then to turn right. This would have led directly to Horreo Roundabout. It does not really matter which route you take as long as you realise where you are going!

Turning left by the old Convent building

Right down Abeledos Street past the old town hall

If you take the Abeledos Street route you come to this Y-junction; Abeledos Street is to the right
here, but a better option is to take the road on the left. (Time: 9-02 a.m.)

Horreo Roundabout, which leads on to "Pilgrim Roundabout"

The road to A Vide leads from this roundabout

This stretch is straight forward - a 3 km slog along the road to A Vide

Coming to the end of the 3-km straight stretch; I assumed that this was "a Vide"
but there was no village sign as such

The road swung right and then left as it went uphill. There was a turnoff to the right at this point, which was probably the country-side route mentioned in the guide. There was a big "Yellow-cross" painted on a lamp post by this turn off, which led me to think (incorrectly?) that that was not the way. The road route, however was clearly signposted.

Entering O Outeiro a couple of minutes after the Camino sign

The church at O Outeiro

The 3 km sign on the LU-P-3204..... reassuring to know where I was!! (Time: 9-52 a.m.)

Crossing the Ctra de Monforte de Lemos a Lalin (Time: 9-57 a.m.)

Entering Moreda village (Time: 9-59 a.m.)

Entering A Lagoa (Time: 10-05 a.m.)

(Time: 10-12 a.m.)

Reaching km 5 on LU-P-3204 (Time: 10-15 a.m.)

The signs to the left in the above photo point to Panton and Casa dos Muros

Reaching Os Campos (Time: 10-19 a.m.)

Entering Pacios. The church is just visible in the distance (Time: 10-20 a.m.)

The sign for Regueiro, just before the church; perhaps the district of Pacios only lasts for 100
yards and only covers a couple of houses? (Time: 10-24 a.m.)

The church at Regueiro (Time: 12-24 a.m.)

The Church at Regueiro (Time: 12-26 a.m.)

Leaving Regueiro (Time: 10-31 a.m.)

The road starts to climb, but is well signposted (Time: 10-32 a.m.)

Now I am confused! I'm back in Pacios again! (Time: 10-34 a.m.)

This is getting a bit sad, photographing road signs! But at least I know where I am now,
Km 6 on the LU-P3204! (Time: 10-34 a.m.)

Crossing another major road (Time: 10-40 a.m.)

Moreda...... Km 7 on LU-P-3204 (Time: 10-47 a.m.)

Yes, definitely just passed through Moreda (Time: 10-50 a.m.)

Paderne signposted left (Time: 10-55 a.m.)

Signpost mayhem! Ferreira to the left and Reguengo/Lamaquebrada to the right along the DP-4112, which starts at this cross roads. The road then goes around a left hand bend and you arrive at the wall of the Pazo de O Reguengo. There is a Camino marker here which you can just see, leaning over by the last sign. (Time: 10-58 a.m.)

Kilometer zero of the LU-P-4112 (Time: 10-59 a.m.)

The stone wall around O Pazo de O Reguengo

The end of the Pazo wall (Time: 11-05 a.m.)

The path goes off as a dirt track about 100 yards after the end of the Pazo wall (Time: 11-09 a.m.)

Looking across to the buildings of the Pazo (Time: 11-09 a.m.)

Old stone tracks thought to be of Roman origin. There is a Camino marker by the tree up ahead; I think that I should have carried straight on there up the hill, but because the tractor was parked there it was not clear, and one of the grape pickers actually came across and directed me right. (Time: 11-13 a.m.)

My GPS shows how I missed Pineiro when I detoured right through San Lourenzo at "Tractor Point" and then left up the road.

Grape picking

I should have gone straight on here, but it was not obvious with the tractor being parked there .(Time: 11-15 a.m.)

I was directed right here by the people in the fields, but it was the wrong way and I missed the fountain at Pinero (Time: 11-16 a.m.)

I ended up in this small hamlet, probably San Lourenzo, but it did not look as though the
inhabitants were too keen on stray pilgrims! (Time: 11-19 a.m.). I walked through the hamlet and down to the road, where I found a Camino marker pointing back to the hamlet. I went back and spoke to a lady there, but apart she was unable to help me. Also, with the warning sign on the wall indicating that walkers were not welcome, I went back to the road and turned left.

At this point I decided not to go back through the hamlet. (Time: 11-20 a.m.)

Km 1 on LU-P-4112 (Time: 11-27 a.m.)

Signpost on the road near the hamlet. The yellow arrow actually points back towards the hamlet from the road, but the sign on the wall of the first building indicates that walkers are not welcome. (Time: 11-27 a.m.)

Cigueneira (Time: 11-31 a.m.)

A Airoa (Time: 11-35 a.m.)

Cobreiro (Time: 11-36 a.m.)

Pineiro. The road to the left comes from Pinero Fountain, which is the way I should have come. But at least I was back on track! (Time: 11-40 a.m.)

Yes! A proper track! A proper signpost! So nice to be back on the proper Camino again (Time: 11-42 a.m.)

Time: 11-47 a.m.

I was uncertain which way to go here, until I spotted the yellow arrow on the tree on the left (Time: 11-49 a.m.)

Time: 11-49 a.m.

Time: 11-51 a.m.

Time: 11-53 a.m.

Time: 11-54 a.m.

Time: 12 noon

Time: 12-01 p.m.

Time: 12-02 p.m.

Time: 12-04 p.m.

Arrow pointing right (Time: 12-05 p.m.)

Time: 12-11 p.m.

Time: 12-21 p.m.

Time: 12-24 p.m.

Time: 12-25 p.m.

Time: 12-31 p.m.

Km 6 on LU-P-4112 at 12-36 p.m.

Rendal at 12-39 p.m.

Another crossroads and signpost mayhem! (Time: 12-42 p.m.)

The Casa Rural Torre de Vilarino is to the left. The Road sign tells us that we are now on the DP-5807 heading in the direction of Diomondi. I probably should have gone to Torre de Vilarino and asked them to get a taxi for me! Hindsight is a wonderful thing!

The signpost for Km zero of LU-P-5807

Another road junction, with Diomondi to the right (Time: 12-50 p.m.)

Km 1 on LU-P-5807 at 12-56 p.m.

Time 12-59 p.m.

Km 2 on LU-P-5807 at 13-08 p.m.

Time: 13-09 p.m.

Km 3 on LU-P-5807. Apart from the grape pickers at San Lourenzo, these were about the only other people that I saw. (Time:13-21 p.m.)

Time: 13-24 p.m.

Time: 13-29 p.m.

Km 4 on LU-P-5807 at 13-34 p.m.

Time: 13-36 p.m.

Time: 13-37 p.m.

Time: 13-46 p.m.

Time: 13-47 p.m.

Km 5 on LU-P-5807 at 13-50 p.m.

A small winery (Time: 13-59 p.m.)

Km 6 on LU-P-5807 at 14-03 p.m.

Cross at Montecelo Time: 14-08 p.m.

Montecelo at 14-10 p.m.

This is encouraging! A Camino post with signs for both Diomondi and Belesar. (Time: 14-12 p.m.)

Time: 14-16 p.m.

You come to a sign which shows a path going off to the left to Belesar, and indicating that the church
at Diomondi is another 100 m ahead.

San Paio de Diomondi church, described as being a jewel of Romanesque architecture. Certainly an interesting church, but once you have seen the Romanesque church at Fromista nothing compares! (Time: 14-18 p.m.)